Making a reservation at Jean-Robert at Pigall's for Friday or Saturday dinner is difficult. Getting a seat at the "chef's table" in the kitchen any night of the week is even tougher.

The table, which seats up to six in a corner, is usually booked two months in advance, says maitre d' Richard Brown.

Guests who snag a seat there not only get a behind the scenes view but also are greeted and served by chef de Cavel himself.

"I wanted to put some personality into it," de Cavel says. "It has turned out better than I ever imagined."

Unlike restaurants in other cities, Pigall's does not charge extra for the privilege of sitting at the chef's table. But first, you must get the table.

Reservations (721-1345) are accepted up to 60 days in advance but cannot be made until the first day of each month. Call early, because the table is usually completely booked by noon of that day.

Chuck Martin