By Reid Forgrave
The Cincinnati Enquirer

Christian Walters of Madeira tries some green chili at the 14th annual Car Show and Chili Cookoff Sunday. (Craig Ruttle photo) | ZOOM |

NEWPORT - The missing ingredient in the chilies that didn't win the annual Kentucky State Championship Chili Cookoff is hard to buy at any grocery store.

Luck.

"When you got 100 different chilies on the table, let's face it, you're rolling the dice a bit," said Jim Deere of Pana, Ill., as he stirred his pot of verde (green) chili on a propane camp stove Sunday at Newport's Riverboat Row.

That didn't stop two dozen chili chefs from debating the perfect chili Sunday. They were vying for first prize in the 2003 Kentucky championship, which nails down an invitation to the International Chili Society World Championship in Reno, Nev. Thousands attended Sunday's cookoff and accompanying car show near Newport on the Levee.

The world champion gets $25,000 for best red chili and $3,000 for best chili verde.

St. Louisan Jerry Simmons (2000 world champ for chili verde) said the key is to keep it simple, with only five ingredients and the brightest green chili peppers. Kevin Simmons of Huntington, W.Va., said it takes "patience, time and tender loving care." And Julie Nesterof Indiana, with her 3 Broads Chilisaid all chilies at the world championship taste pretty much the same.

Judges rate the chilies on texture, color, taste, how spices permeate the mix, aroma and consistency.

Of course, when judging chili, all is relative. "If (the judges) have to choose one of those chilies, and that's the only chili they could have for the rest of their life, which would they choose?" said Robert McCray, who coordinated the chili judges. "The winner of the best chili one weekend isn't the winner of the best chili the next weekend."

One thing was for sure: Skyline style wouldn't win.

"I contend chili changes every 100 miles," Deere said. "When you're in Rome, you cook like the Romans.

"But," the chili connoisseur said as he stirred his vat of green chili, which in no way resembled a Cincinnati-style three-way, "that doesn't really apply here."

Perhaps out-of-town competitors should have paid more attention to hometown tastes. The champions from Sunday's event:

Red chili: Vinny Morano of Cincinnati. Chili verde: George Phelps of Cincinnati.

On the web

•  www.chilicookoff.com

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E-mail rforgrave@enquirer.com