By Rebecca Goodman
The Cincinnati Enquirer

Chip Emmerich makes 10 wines for his Burnet Ridge label, based in North College Hill. But he's reluctant to single out one as his favorite. "My wines," he explains, "are my children."

As a parent, I appreciate that. But as a wine columnist, it's my job to be partial. So I'm touting two vintages at area wine shops now: 1999 Que Syrah, and 2001 Three Kings Cabernet Sauvignon.

I like them even more than the wine Emmerich calls "the big kid on the block" - his 2001 Purple Trillium ($24).

For many Cincinnatians, Purple Trillium is the favored son. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot (Emmerich brings crushed grapes from California), it accounts for 55 percent of Burnet Ridge's sales. Most of those bottles are uncorked at 150 restaurants that offer Burnet Ridge. And this Meritage-style wine is a fine accompaniment to a meal.

But Three Kings Cabernet is superb on its own. While it's the most expensive Burnet Ridge wine ($28), the rich taste of black cherry blows the labels off some cabs costing twice as much. Emmerich enhances the flavor and color by blending in petit verdot (7 percent). Like all of his reds, this cabernet is unfiltered. That helps the subtle aromas and flavors carry through to a lingering, elegant finish.

I also dote on the beautifully balanced Que Syrah ($20). The bouquet is heady, while the lush blackberry taste has a peppery undertone. The name Que Syrah honors Queen City native Doris Day. It's fitting, because this syrah sings.

E-mail sips@enquirer.com