Sunday, May 18, 2003

Campbell's Scoop


Catch wild Alaskan salmon at Palomino

By Polly Campbell
The Cincinnati Enquirer

The salmon started running on the Copper River in Alaska Friday, when the river was opened for fishing for three hours. By Saturday night, Palomino, downtown, had the wild salmon on the table. It's the beginning of the wild salmon season, a favorite time of year for fish lovers. There will be wild Alaskan salmon on the menu at Palomino all spring and through the summer.

Most salmon served in restaurants is farm-raised. It's cheap, it's available and it's good. But it can't compare to the deep-red, flavorful wild salmon from the northern Pacific. These huge fish swim hundreds of miles through cold waters, packing on flavorful (and healthy) fat. The catches are controlled carefully by the Alaskan Department of Natural Resources, so this is one species of wild fish that is not endangered.

Palomino will serve Copper River salmon in various preparations, including a Cedar Plank Duet with Knight Island halibut, oven roasted Copper River King Salmon with sauteed chanterelles and rich pear butter and honey peppercorn Copper River King Salmon.

Because of the limited supply, wild salmon is more expensive than farm-variety, so these entrees are $24-$28.

If you want just a taste of the salmon, there are less expensive dishes, such as smoked salmon chowder, salmon cakes and a King Copper River Cobb salad.

Halibut from Alaska is also in season. At Palomino, halibut is served with a fresh berry salsa.

The Copper River harvest lasts about six weeks. Then other areas in the Northwest open as different groups of salmon return to their spawning grounds in various rivers. There are the Dangerous Cape, Bristol Bay and Yukon River catches to look forward to.

Palomino, 505 Vine St, downtown, 381-1300.

E-mail pcampbell@enquirer.com




CHILDREN'S CHORUSES
Youth choruses booming
More composers writing for young voices
Children should get head start in choirs
Community choruses for kids
• Youth chorus profiles:
Talia Broering
Mark Dapkins
Rachel Lang
Brittany Lucas

TEMPO COVER STORIES
Music industry 'spoofs' illegal file traders
Get to It: A guide to help make your day

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
Springfest earns place on music calendar
DEMALINE: Theater can counter 'youth drain'
Invisible actors still in spotlight
Festival hits high note with 'Requiem'
CCM's 'Pelleas' lusty and stunning
Play looks squarely at Big Brother
Brainy Prophet evokes musical kaleidoscope

PEOPLE
DAUGHERTY: Prom survivor shares advice with son
In the classroom with photographer Jimmy Heath
Collector's box score 1,000 and counting
Wallace uses dance as therapy
KENDRICK: Not all guide dogs, owners are same

TASTE
Great books, for every kind of cook
Catch wild Alaskan salmon at Palomino
Peppers can be such sweet heat