McAlister's Deli in Kenwood is one of the newest "quick casual" restaurants proliferating around the country. This one is from Mississippi and run here by the Bistro Group.

The menu is a wide variety of overstuffed deli sandwiches, including a fat muffaletta with pungent, authentic olive salad.

For my sandwich test, I ordered a classic BLT. What makes a good BLT? The "T" is probably the most important element. A tomato picked in August, bright red and juicy, makes the best sandwich. But if you can't have that, another approach is to use a lot of bacon.

Here's how they build a BLT at McAlister's: Between two slices of toasted sourdough, there's a thick pile of lean, smoky, well-done bacon with tomato, lettuce and light mayonnaise. You don't get the wonderful mess of juicy tomato soaking into the toast, but you get a nice hit of smoke and crunch. (It's $4.99).

McAlister's Deli also has stuffed baked potatoes, salads, soups and desserts. Food is served in a bright, clean setting. You order at the counter, but servers bring the food to your table. Prices: $4.49-$6.99.

7720 Montgomery Road, Kenwood, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. 792-0600.

Polly Campbell