By Marilyn Harris
Enquirer contributor

Nobody enjoys a plate of Cincinnati chili more than I. But the first time I ate it, I made the statement that I'd like it better if they called it something other than "chili." "Real chili" to me was something totally different, with chunks of meat in a hearty spicy broth. It might be spooned over a big slice of freshly made cornbread, but never over spaghetti.

To illustrate a typical "Tex-Mex" chili for my cooking students, I've often used this recipe. It certainly differs from the types of chili we're used to eating here. For instance, you will notice it has no tomatoes, tomato paste or sauce and it doesn't even call for the traditional chili powder. Other than the usual fresh onions and garlic, it draws its robust flavor from paprika and cumin with crushed red chile pepper.

The amount of the crushed chile you add determines how much heat you like in your chili. This is an economical dish since it must be made with a less tender cut of beef. Chuck is the preferred cut to buy since it has an appealing coarse texture that makes it shred nicely when cooked to the proper doneness. Beef chuck also has an especially good rich beef flavor.

For a change, you may want to use pork. Then you should buy pork "butt," which is actually a cut from the pork shoulder. It is also possible to use half beef and half pork. Whatever type of meat you use be sure to cook it until the meat falls apart when prodded with a fork.

This is the time to get out your heaviest pot. I prefer a cast iron pot because it is easy to brown the meat slowly to a rich brown color. Browning is an important step for developing a rich flavor. Braising, or slow cooking in liquid, is also best in a heavy pot constructed of cast iron because its even heat conduction works well with low heat.

Finally, the addition of "masa harina," the Mexican corn flour used to make tortillas, finishes the chili by thickening it and adding a mild flavor that tempers its spiciness.

This is real and serious eating for a cold day, or any time you are hungry for hearty victuals.

Tex-Mex Chili

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

21/2 pounds cubed beef chuck

2 cups chopped onions

3 large cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons sweet paprika (Hungarian is best)

1 tablespoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons kosher salt, or to taste

1 cup water

2 teaspoons crushed hot red pepper, or to taste

1 tablespoon masa harina (Mexican corn flour available in some supermarkets or Hispanic markets)

1/4 cup water

Cook beef in the hot oil in a heavy pan, turning and browning thoroughly on all sides. Stir in onion and garlic and cook, stirring, over medium heat for about 10 minutes.

Add paprika and cumin and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 more minutes. Add the salt, cup of water and crushed hot red pepper. Bring to a boil, cover, and cook over very low heat for 3 hours or until meat shreds easily with a fork. (Or place in a 300-degree oven.)

Stir together the masa harina and remaining water. Stir into the chili and cook 10 minutes longer. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Contact Marilyn Harris by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer, 312 Elm St., Cincinnati 45202; e-mail marilyn@55krc.com.