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Wednesday, December 18, 2002

Update beauty routine with thought, caution



By Samantha Critchell
The Associated Press

New year, new look, right?

'Tis the time to test out the self-tanner that was purchased over the summer but is still in the box, or the liquid eyeliner that you haven't figured out how to use.

These beauty projects shouldn't be rushed, though. Take an hour or two to play with some new cosmetics and to allow their looks to sink in - mentally and physically.

Most changes, even subtle ones, require an adjustment: Think of all the double takes in the mirror after a haircut. Body glitter or electric-blue eye makeup surely would have a more exaggerated effect.

But the results can be worth it when a beauty routine is successfully updated and one's assets are further enhanced, says Charlie Green, makeup artist for Sephora.

Tropical shadows

"Don't get stuck in the color-by-numbers way," she says. "Have fun. Makeup is supposed to be fun."

According to Ms. Green, one of the key looks for spring will be bright, tropical-colored eye shadows, but they require a little practice to make them perfect.

"They're supposed to be a pop of color but they're not necessarily for all over the lid," she explains.

In the Sephora spring preview lookbook, for instance, Bourjois Paris suggests using a dab of bright blue or violet on the inner corner of the lid while the rest of the eyelid is covered in a light pastel shade.

Meanwhile, applying liquid eyeliner is as dramatic as the aesthetic result. To do it correctly, a steady-but-delicate hand and the proper tools are required.

Ms. Green recommends using a small, thin brush from an art store; the brush that comes with the eyeliner typically is too thick and will create a blotchy line, she says. (The art brushes cost about $1.)

New users of liquid eyeliner may want to opt for softer colors, including brown or taupe, than traditional jet black, which can be jarring, Ms. Green notes.

Another eye-catching look is false lashes. But to keep them from looking too fake, Ms. Green advises gluing just a few individual lashes to fill in your natural lash line or take a row of attached false lashes and cut it into thirds. Glue just one piece at the outer corner of your upper lash line.

Another trend for winter that will continue into the spring is shimmer. Shimmery powders can go just about anywhere - the eyes, cheeks, shoulders and decolletage, and even the lips - but don't put them under the bottom lash line, warns Ms. Green, because it will attract attention to any discoloration or wrinkles.

Her tip for applying a glitter product is to put a little foundation underneath it to help hold it in place so the shimmer doesn't sink.

The trick of self-tanner is finding a shade that complements your skin tone, which might mean spending a few days trying different colors and products in discreet places, such as the inside of the arm or the stomach.

Color correct

Brad Johns, artistic director for Manhattan's Avon Salon and Spa, says when it comes to hair, there are different levels of color commitment that allow you to experiment in the privacy of your own home without having to fear the results.

"The easiest and safest thing is to go to a (beauty-supply store) or a wig store and get tiny pieces of hair to weave in with your own. There's no risk there," Mr. Johns says.

A limited-risk option is to poke strategically placed holes in a plastic bag and put the bag over your hair. Use spray-can hair color to coat the strands. When the bag comes off, you have highlights.

At-home hairdressers will have to live the longest with an all-over, semi-permanent coloring product so be sure to read the directions beginning to end, which should describe how the dye will change existing hair colors, Mr. Johns advises. A color's name and the box's photo usually indicate the effect of the dye on gray hair that has not undergone any chemical treatment such as straightening or a permanent, , he explains.



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Bubbly perfect for holidays - or anytime
Styrofoam steps up as decoration
Do you know rules of kitchen for safe dinner?
Ginkgo shows promise in some sexual dysfunction
Update beauty routine with thought, caution
Tolkien's `Lord' launched realms of fantasy fiction
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