The turkey's cooked, the family is gathered, and it's time to open the wine. But what do you pick to go with the Thanksgiving meal? White or red? Dry or sweet?

This question often comes up and the answer is always easy - serve the wines you like. But for those seeking to enhance the food and wine experience, there's something for everyone when it comes time to choose Thanksgiving wines.

Selecting a wine for the big dinner is not without its challenges. Traditional Thanksgiving meals are an assortment of foods- sticky, glazed sweet potatoes, tart cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, gravy, herb stuffing and, of course, the turkey, some other roasted meat (or for some, tofu).

Some good choices

Similarly, Thanksgiving dinners typically tend to be a friends-and-family affair, with a wide range of palates and preferences at the table. Here are some basic tips to consider when heading to the wine store in the coming weeks:

If you are hosting a large group, focus on affordable, friendly wines that will please everyone.

Consider serving reds and whites.

Focus your shopping on full-bodied whites and lighter red wines.

When shopping for lighter-style reds, shoppers have a broad selection from which to choose. Lighter reds, as opposed to big boys such as zinfandel, merlot and cabernet, are a nice mix of soft, fruit with enough structure to hold up to the holiday fare. Some examples:

Pinot noir: From California, check out the likes of Sanford, Morgan, David Bruce and Saintsbury. Pinots from Oregon's Willamette Valley include Domain Drouhin, Argyle and Kings Ridge.

Rioja: This Spanish red is just one of several varietals making headlines. Stores don't run terribly deep in rioja, so start with classic offerings from Marques de Caceres or Bodegas Muga.

Chianti: It's not just for pasta anymore. This Italian red can run the gamut of flavor depth, from fruity to structured. Check out wines from Antinori, Ricasoli and Badia Coltibuono/Robert Stucci.

Beaujolais/beaujolais nouveau: This year's nouveau arrives Thursday. It's a great young wine for those still not sure about reds or wanting something that goes with everything.

If you prefer whites, look for heavier, fuller-body white wines. Lighter whites will be lost in the mÈlange of Thanksgiving flavors and textures.

Chardonnay: This is not my first pick given the variety of other options. Look for oaky offerings from California or chablis and other white burgundies.

Blends: Wineries are creating terrific blends that offer a range of flavors, depending on the varietals used. Check out Caymus Vineyards' Conundrum and Evolution from Sokol Blosser.

Kudos to some wine stores that offer visual cues in-store for Thanksgiving wines. These small markers (often Thanksgiving-themed stickers) are great way to guide shoppers who may not have the time or inclination to sort through the offerings.

E-mail: asimmons@deskey.com or send questions and comments c/o the Enquirer, 312 Elm St., Cincinnati 45202.