If anyone has earned the privilege to write a thick, thoughtful book on French cooking, it is probably James Peterson. A California native who trained in French kitchens and owned a French restaurant in New York, Mr. Peterson has won several awards for his previous books, including Sauces (Wiley; $44.95), Fish and Shellfish (Morrow; $44.95) and Vegetables (Morrow; $35).

His latest, Glorious French Food (Wiley; $45), probably will win critical acclaim, too, but even he has no delusions about the 733-page book, which contains few photos and no illustrations, becoming a best-seller. From the beginning, it was going to be about French cooking, he says. But Mr. Peterson never considered taking a gimmicky "Fast and French" approach.

The organization of Glorious French Food is different from most other French cookbooks. Mr. Peterson structures his book on 50 classic or more well-known recipes, and then builds chapters around each, explaining techniques and describing ingredients used to cook similar dishes. So a chapter that begins with Duck a la Orange also includes recipes for Salad of Sauteed Duck Breasts, Duck Confit and Duck Stew. The chapter on Gratin Dauphinois evolves to Pasta Gratin, Leek Gratin and Cauliflower Gratin.

"I wanted people to be able to open any chapter and start cooking,'' Mr. Peterson says. "I didn't want to force readers to start at the beginning and cook through the book.''

Although thick and thoughtful, Glorious Food is not stuffy. Mr. Peterson provides interesting information on the history and tradition of the French dishes, and many tales - several self-deprecating - about his experiences in France.

Before a book-signing last week at Joseph-Beth Booksellers in Norwood, Mr. Peterson answered questions about his new book and French food.

Question: Why did you write this book?

Answer: I wanted to give the reasoning behind all these dishes, why they're related, what the underlying network of thinking is. The thing I'm trying to get across is I want people to design their own recipes. I want them to learn to cook intuitively.

Q: You believe Americans rely on recipes too much?

A: Yes. And if you're so dependent on recipes, then any little thing can go wrong.

Q: For whom did you write this book?

A: I wrote it for two sets of readers, I think. The upper middle class, people who like to cook or a smart person who can assimilate information. And culinary students.

Q: So not for the average cook?

A: Probably not. I don't want to cut out the average cook, either. But I certainly don't pretend that it will reach everyone. People have to want to read. They have to read this book. . . . I don't think it's dependent on what people know, it's dependent on their enthusiasm. If someone's just beginning (to cook) and they're enthusiastic, then I think it (his book) would be great.

Q: Has anyone accused you of being thorough?

A: Yes, I'm actually quite obsessive. . . . I wanted this to be everything I needed to say. I didn't have to worry about space, volume and complexity. Wiley (the publisher) is not put off by this kind of stuff. They do text books.

Q: In your book, you point out the French are more consumed by food and wine than Americans. Can you explain why?

A: Food and cooking is still pretty much a class thing here. But in France, truck drivers talk about food.

Q: Some will say French food has lost much of its appeal in the United States. Do you think French is making a comeback?

A: Yes. And I think the fat phobia thing is calming down, even reversed, much to my pleasure. I can tell in my cooking classes. It used to be if I threw a chunk of butter in a pan people would freak out. Now it's: Oh, put more in. There has been a shift.

Gratin Dauphinois (Baked, Creamed Potato Gratin)

2 1/2 pounds red or white waxy potatoes

1 small garlic clove, crushed

1 tablespoon softened butter

2 cups heavy cream or half-and-half

Salt and pepper, to taste

Nutmeg

3/4 pound finely grated Gruyere (about 4 cups, grated)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Peel potatoes and cover with cold water in a bowl. Thoroughly rub the inside of a large gratin dish or baking dish with crushed garlic clove. Smear inside of dish with butter.

Bring cream to simmer in saucepan and pour enough into the gratin dish to form a thin layer. Sprinkle salt, pepper and tiny bit of nutmeg into cream. Slice potatoes about 1/8-inch thick and spread them over the layer of cream, overlapping slightly. Sprinkle potatoes with cheese, pour more cream over them and season again with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Repeat until all ingredients are used up, finishing with layer of cheese.

If you've used a flame-proof dish, place it on top of the stove and move it gently back and forth, positioning it in different spots, over medium heat, until the cream comes to a simmer, about 5 minutes. Place dish in oven and bake about 1 hour, until the top of the gratin is golden brown and a knife slides easily in and out of potatoes. (If you don't heat the dish on top of the stove first, bake the gratin a little longer.) Makes 8 side dish servings.

- Glorious French Food

E-mail cmartin@enquirer.com