The contemporary French decor and cuisine of Jean-Robert at Pigall's will be unlike any restaurant in Cincinnati. And the restaurant will distinguish itself in another way, serving customers with a prix fixe and service compris menu. No other restaurants in the Tristate, and few in this country, offer this European-style service.

        Prix fixe means diners will pay a $65 fixed price for a three-course meal (five- and seven-course meals will also be offered). Chef-owner Jean-Robert de Cavel promises ample choices within the appetizer, entree and dessert categories. But the prix fixe menu means no a la carte ordering.

        John Mariani, restaurant writer for Esquire and Wine Spectator said the $65 prix fixe is a good value, but added that fixed price menus have met resistance, even in cities. “In Europe, people go out to eat the food of the chef,” Mr. Mariani said. “In America, the chef has to cook whatever the customer demands.”

        A service compris policy, common in France, is also rare in the United States. Under the system, Pigall's will include an 18 percent gratuity in the price of every meal. Mr. de Cavel and his partners say that for many, this removes the intimidation from fine dining.

        The $65 fixed price includes tip, valet service and tax. (Some American restaurants include a similar automatic gratuity in checks for large parties.) But service compris doesn't allow customers the option to tip less.

        “I think it's very brave,” said R.W. Apple, associate editor and food writer for The New York Times. “It's (service compris) is now taking over in Britain, and I think it's the wave of the future. I think it's very customer-friendly — if customers think they're getting a fair value.”

        Mr. de Cavel and his partners realize the risks, but are determined to attempt the experiment. “Our feeling is we can always step back from this if it doesn't work,” partner Martin Wade said.

Sunday's Stories

PART 1: Restaurant's opening bittersweet Can new restaurant succeed downtown? Pigall's building dates from city's early days

Monday's Stories

PART 2: Restaurant's opening bittersweet Prices, tips European-style Prices, tips European-style Imported furnishings, local artists decorate restaurant