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Wednesday, June 05, 2002

'Least favorite vegetable' basis of best-loved recipes


The Saucy Cook

        This year's Bon Appetit reader survey gives cabbage the dubious distinction of “least favorite vegetable.” Clearly, they didn't consult cabbage lovers Beverly Meredith in Anderson Township, Angie Woerner in Winton Place or my father.

        While growing up, there was no need for me to ask what was for dinner when the whole block smelled of my Polish father's favorite cabbage rolls. He kept a 50-pound bucket of pickled herring in the basement for winter salads of the creamed fish served on cabbage leaves.

        For variety, my mother would grow and cook Brussels sprouts in the summer. Still, my grandfather would complain we didn't eat enough cabbage. Meanwhile, I imagined my friends were living on mac and cheese or beanie wienies. I felt so deprived.

        But recently, a childhood friend remarked that she had loved eating dinner at my house. Now that I'm older and wiser, I can admit I did, too — except for the herring. So, in anticipation of Father's Day, here are your cabbage requests and as my father says; “Czas e zjes” or “Time to eat,” which is all the Polish I've ever needed to know.

        • Esther Ziegler of Whitewater Township offers this Russian version of cabbage rolls for Angie Woerner of Winton Place. Esther's husband was a Russian language teacher at Princeton High School and Raymond Walters College, so you bet this is authentic.

Golubtze (Cabbage Leaves Stuffed with Meat and Rice)

        10 to 12 large, crisp cabbage leaves
       1 pound ground round steak
        1/2 pound ground pork or unseasoned pork sausage
       1 egg
       1 cup cooked rice
       5 tablespoons butter (divided use)
       1 large onion, chopped
       Salt and pepper, to taste
       2 tablespoons flour
       1 cup tomato juice
       1 cup water
        1/2 cup sour cream
       2 tablespoons minced parsley

        Cut out most of the tough center vein in cabbage leaves. Put leaves in hot, salty water for 10 minutes. Dry and spread leaves gently so they do not tear. Mix ground beef, pork, egg and rice. Saute onions in 1 tablespoon of butter. Add salt and pepper and combine onions thoroughly with raw meat mixture.

        Put stuffing into each leaf of cabbage, making neat little packages (like filling a burrito). Tie each package with a string (or secure with a toothpick). Fry in 4 tablespoons hot butter until brown on each side. Cover and cook slowly 25 to 30 minutes, adding more butter if necessary.

        Remove stuffed leaves to platter and carefully remove strings. Sprinkle flour into same pan. Cook slowly for 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add tomato juice and water and bring to a quick boil. Add sour cream, salt and pepper and parsley. Pour gravy over golubtze and serve. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

        • Beverly Meredith of Anderson Township wants the hot slaw recipe served years ago at Sky Galley at Lunken Airport. Bad news is the former owner took the recipe with him. The good news is I found this version from the 1971 New York Times International Cookbook (out-of-print).

Hot Slaw or German Cabbage Salad

        1 head firm green cabbage
       Salt to taste
       1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons wine vinegar
       Freshly ground pepper, to taste
        1/3 cup finely chopped onion

        8 slices bacon, cut into fine dice

        Discard loose outside cabbage leaves and cabbage core. Cut remaining cabbage into quarters. Fill big pot with water and bring to a boil. Add salt and quartered cabbage (cabbage should be covered with water). Cook uncovered about 20 minutes until crisp-tender. Drain well and rinse under cold running water.

        Shred and coarsely chop drained cabbage. Toss with vinegar, pepper and onion. Meanwhile, cook bacon in small skillet until crisp. Remove from heat and immediately pour bacon and fat over cabbage. Toss well and serve. Makes 8 or more servings.

Can you help?

        • Jane Moran of Symmes Township is looking for the Texas Shrimp recipe served at Chester's Roadhouse in Montgomery. They are closing at the end of July and I have called to no avail. Does anyone have a similar recipe?

        • Hello, Arthur's in Hyde Park? Tim Benton in Mount Lookout thinks your chicken tortilla soup is outstanding and would like the recipe.

        • Here's an emergency request: Lucky Stacy Haas in North Bend just received 50 pounds of frozen cod and needs new ways to serve it.

        Send food questions, tips, recipe requests and recipes to Saucy Cook, c/o The Cincinnati Enquirer, 312 Elm St., Cincinnati 45202; fax: 768-8330; e-mail: foodlady@zoomtown.com. Please include name, neighborhood, e-mail and phone number.

       



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