Andy's Mediterranean Grille is one of those little neighborhood places where you can drop in on the way home from work to pick up a light meal.

IF YOU GO

Andy's Mediterranean Grille 906 Nassau St., Walnut Hills 281-9791

        A block off Gilbert Avenue in Walnut Hills, just a quick hop up the hill from downtown, Andy's has undergone some major changes. There is a newly remodeled split-level dining area, a deck and a wine and beer license to attract eat-in trade.

        I was glad to see the carryout features have not changed much. The menu is slanted toward Lebanese and other Middle Eastern-style foods.A plate of appetizers is a must.

        The Mediterranean Sampler ($5.99) takes care of that with creamy hummus, baba ghanoush and labneh, a thickened yogurt cheese flavored with garlic. You can scoop up all of these with fresh pita bread, and you also get tabbouleh and juicy black olives. Any of these can be ordered individually. There also is a simple spinach pie ($3.49) that is quite good.

        Entrees are mainly meats grilled as kebabs with rice and a large salad. The Jumbo Combo ($14.99, serves two) allows for a sampling of the beef tenderloin shish kebab, skewered with peppers and tomato, the shish kafta, chopped beef on skewers with onion and parsley, and the shish tawook, chunks of chicken breast. All three are grilled, which create a wonderful aroma as you walk in the door. Like the sampler appetizer plate, these can be ordered individually.

        I wasn't as enthusiastic about the kibbeh ($8.99), a savory blending of ground lamb, onion and bulgur wheat that is formed into a torpedo shape and deep-fried. The crusty outer shell was overdone, a problem I also found with the falafel ($8.99), the spiced chickpea croquettes. Both are served as entrees but also come in pita bread sandwiches.

        Nevertheless, there's much to like about Andy's. Pick up your order, brew some mint iced tea and have a Mediterranean feast.
       

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