Of course, Charles Dickens wasn't referring to the state of wine in 2002 when he penned “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times.”

        Frankly, if he were a wine drinker today, he wouldn't be so optimistic.

        In contrast to Dickens, many wine lovers would characterize today as the worst of times — period. We've suffered dramatic increases in wine prices, and we've lost discretionary income with the recession.

        How do we cope? Are we forced to drink less, or drink less well?

        We'd prefer to drink well for less money, so I asked staff at three Tristate wine stores to recommend wine bargains — good wines for hard times. Each wine is less than $15, except for a splurge wine that offers exceptional value at a somewhat higher price. Each wine selection is available from the store listed and, of course, most are also available elsewhere.

Cork 'n Bottle

        Established in 1964, Cork 'n Bottle offers more than 3,500 wines, from popular brands to lesser-known discoveries from across the world. Co-owner Tim Hue selects the wines with an eye for up-and-coming wine regions, especially from the southern hemisphere. Cork 'N Bottle is at 501 Crescent Ave. just west of Interstate 75 in Covington; (859) 261-8333).

        • Red wines:

        — Domaine de Gournier 2000 Merlot “VdP Cevennes-Uzege” ($10).

        — Chateau de Campuget 2000 Rouge (syrah blend) “Costieres de Nimes, Rhone Valley” ($8).

        — Bearitage non-vintage (cabernet blend by Gundlach Bundschu) Lot No. 9 “California Claret” ($12).

        • White wines:

        — Domaine de Pouy 2000 “VDP Cotes de Gascogne” ($7).

        — Pellegrini 2000 Chardonnay “Un-Oaked, Sonoma County” ($10).

        — Domaine Lucien Albrecht 2000 Pinot Blanc “Alsace” ($12).

        • Splurge selection: Cloverdale Ranch (Pellegrini) 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon “Alexander Valley” ($20).

Village Keg Wines and Spirits

        Village Keg Wines and Spirits has a substantial wine selection focused on California. Owner Mike Hagedorn, whose family has been in the retail beverage trade 44 years, selects the wines and emphasizes good values from around the world. Village Keg Wines and Spirits is at 5 Enfield St. in Greenhills; 825-2776.

        • Red wines:

        — Smoking Loon 1999 Syrah “California” ($12).

        — Yellow Tail 2000 Shiraz “South Eastern Australia” ($7).

        — San Ciriaco 1999 Valpolicella ($14).

        • White wines:

        — Valley of the Moon 2000 Pinot Blanc “Sonoma County” ($14).

        — Giesen 1999 Sauvignon Blanc “Marlborough” ($13).

        — Boscaini 2000 Pinot Grigio “Valdadige, La Cros” ($12).

        • Splurge Selection: Casa Emma 1997 Chianti Classico ($21).

The Wine Store

        The Wine Store features 1,300 wines from across the world and provides tastings every week, as well as a wine dinner or seminar every month. Owner Mary Fruehwald selects the wines and directs wine education activities. The Wine Store is at 10032 Montgomery Road in Montgomery; 984-9463.

        • Red wines:

        — Domaine de la Brune 2000 (syrah blend) “Coteaux du Languedoc” ($9).

        — Cypress 1999 Merlot “Central Coast” ($10).

        — Chandon 2000 Malbec “Terrazas, Perdriel, Mendoza” ($11).

        • White wines

        — Buena Vista 2000 Sauvignon Blanc “California” ($8.50).

        — De Loach 2000 Gewurztraminer “Early Harvest, Russian River Valley” ($13)

        • Other wine: Barbadillo non-vintage Sherry “Pedro Ximenez, Extra Rich, Spain” ($14).

        • Splurge Selection: Clos La Chance 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon “Santa Cruz Mountains” ($24).

        Contact John Vankat by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer; phone: (800) 524-1005; fax: 768-8330.

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