Quick, what country leads the world in acres planted in wine grapes? France, Italy or the United States?

        None of the above. It's Spain, with France and Italy tied for second.

        Spain is a large and geographically diverse country, with the flat plains of Don Quixote's La Mancha and jagged peaks of the Pyrenees. But most of Spain shares hot, dry weather, which limits vineyard yields. So although first in acreage, Spain trails France and Italy in wine production. The weather also accounts for why many Spanish wine grapes are unfamiliar to Americans — most are drought-resistant varieties.

        Superimposed on the physical geography is a diverse cultural geography that results in many wines. There's sherry from Jerez in the south, cava (sparkling wine) from Penedes (pen-eh-DAIS) in the northeast, dry whites of Rias Baixas (REE-ahse BYCE-ahse) in the northwest, dry roses of Navarra near the Pyrenees and various reds from across the country.

        The most widely grown grape variety of Spain — and the world — is airen (eye-REN); however, it is largely unknown in the United States except as an ingredient in Spanish brandies.

        In contrast, Spain's best white wine, albarino (ahl-bah-REE-nyoh), is commonly available in the Tristate. In northwest Spain and northern Portugal (where it is called alvarinho), the cooler, more moist climate near the Atlantic Ocean results in fresh flavorful wines that go wonderfully well with seafood. If you're unfamiliar with albarino, however, prepare yourself for dry flavors dominated by bracing (but not harsh) acidity.

        • Foremost among the albarinos I've tasted recently is Martin Codax 2000 “Rias Baixas” ($16). Although its color and nose are only moderately impressive, its taste is excellent. Medium body, intense flavors, crisp acidity, forward fruit, and an extended finish. Highly recommended.

        • A close second on my list is Morgadio 2000 “Rias Baixas” ($20). It has a similar taste profile but more color and aroma. Recommended.

        • Third is a sibling of my favorite: Martin Codax 2000 “Burgans, Rias Baixas” ($14). I found it less flavorful than its vineyard mate, but still very enjoyable. Recommended.

        • Among other Spanish whites I've tasted recently, my favorite is Godeval 1999 “Valdeorras Valley” ($14). It's slightly sweeter than the albarinos and therefore more appealing to American palates. Recommended.

        • A cut below (and listed in alphabetical order) are Breton 1999 “Lorinon, Rioja” ($16), Cachazo 2000 “Las Brisas, Rueda” ($7), Granja 1999 “Basa, Rueda” ($8), Muga 2000 “Rioja” ($10) and Vega Sindoa 1999 Chardonnay “Cuvee allier, Navarra” ($12).

        In my next column, I'll focus on Spanish reds. But promise you'll pour an albarino with seafood before then.

       Contact John Vankat by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer; fax: 768-8330.

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