Wednesday, September 12, 2001
Restaurant schnitzel
Schnitzel presents such a simple canvas to the creative cook that it always has inspired variations.
Certain of these have become the classic versions that you'll find on German restaurant menus: Holsteinerschnitzel, with a fried egg and anchovies; Pariser schnitzel, in an eggy batter; paprika schnitzel, with sour cream and paprika; Jaeger schnitzel, with red wine and mushrooms.
The best place in Greater Cincinnati to try all these versions is the Iron Skillet in Newtown, where chef/owner Laszlo Molnar hand-breads and fries each schnitzel when it's ordered. He also accompanies each different kind with its own side dish. For example, Kaiser schnitzel (heavy cream lemon and capers) goes with spaetzle, wiener schnitzel with a crunchy cucumber salad.
The Iron Skillet; 6900 Valley Ave., Newtown. 561-6776.
— Polly Campbell
Gutes Essen, gute Laune!
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