Labor Day weekend may mark the end of the summer season, but there is enough time remaining in the berry season to make today's luscious recipe.

        An English specialty, this berry pudding was one of the highlights of an extended summer vacation I spent in Great Britain a few years ago. Along with the three berries I put into my recipe, the English version usually has fresh red currants, which make this dish more special and flavorful. But it's not necessary to use all three of the berries. A combination of any two makes a delicious and colorful pudding.

        This is my “fancy company” version because it uses cake as the base. I have also eaten delicious berry puddings that used simple sliced white bread to line the mold. If you do, choose a good quality, firm bread with coarse texture, such as an unsliced loaf from a local bakery. Slice it into thick piece that will readily soak the sweetened berry juice.

        Brioche bread, either homemade or purchased from a bakery, is an even better, if somewhat more decadent, choice for this dish. Please note that lining the mold (or bowl) with plastic wrap is my own trick for always successfully unmolding your pudding.

        Serve berry pudding plain or make it even better with a large dollop or sweetened whipped cream. If you like desserts that are not overly sweet, substitute unsweetened creme fraiche.

Summer Berry Pudding

       1 pint each: raspberries, blueberries and blackberries
        3/4 cup sugar

       Sponge Cake

       2 large eggs, separated
        1/2 cup sugar
        2/3 cup cake flour, sifted
       Sweetened freshly whipped cream or plain heavy cream, (if desired)

        Place berries in a colander and rinse well. (Not necessary to drain.) Pour into a large, non-corrosive saucepan and sprinkle with 3/4 cup sugar. Allow to sit at room temperature at least 30 minutes. Place over heat and bring to a boil; boil 1 minute. Remove from heat and allow berries to cool in their juice.

        To make the cake, beat room temperature egg whites with electric mixer until stiff, but not dry. (Until soft peaks form.) Add egg yolks, one at a time, beating continuously at high speed. Add sugar, a large spoonful at a time, and beat until mixture is thick, pale yellow. Gradually and gently fold in sifted flour.

        Grease and flour an 8-inch square cake pan. Pour in the batter. Place in the middle of a preheated 350-degree oven and bake 20 to 25 minutes or until a tester comes out clean and the top is golden brown. Cool a few minutes on a rack, and then invert to remove cake to rack to cool completely.

        To assemble pudding, cut the cake into 1/2-inch thick slices. Line a 1-quart plain mold or mixing bowl with plastic wrap. Line the sides and bottom with cake slices side-by-side to form a solid layer . Spoon in half of the fruit with the juice. Cover with another layer of the cake and spoon in the remaining fruit. Cover top with remaining cake.

        Place a saucer or small plate directly on the cake and place a weight (about 2 pounds) on top of the plate. Refrigerate pudding 24 hours. Invert the pudding onto a serving dish. Cut into slices and serve, topped with whipped or plain cream. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
       Contact Marilyn Harris by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer, 312 Elm St., Cincinnati 45202; fax: 768-8330; e-mail: marilyn@55krc.com. Include name, address and daytime telephone number.
       

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