But some foods seem suited for summer, while others are meant to be consumed in the fall and winter. Cooking and eating seasonally, giving up the sweet corn (even grudgingly) of August and looking forward to pumpkin and butternut squash of October, is refreshing.

        As the weather turns later this month, hot and comforting stew is another dish I will savor after a long summer respite. “Ragout” is a fancy word for stew made with meat, poultry, fish or vegetables. Coincidentally, the word is derived from the French ragouter, which means to “stimulate the appetite.” For me, it's the change of seasons that stimulates the appetite.

        This simple ragout combines the classic autumnflavors of wild mushrooms with rich stock (you could substitute vegetable stock) and red wine. It can be served alone in a shallow bowl as a light entree, or on the side with duck, lamb or game.<

        Contact Chuck Martin by phone: 768-8507; fax: 768-8330; e-mail: cmartin@enquirer.com.

Fall Ragout of Wild Mushrooms

        1 cup low-sodium beef or chicken stock, or mixture of both
        1/4 cup dried wild mushrooms, such as chanterelles or porcini. (See note.)
        4 to 5 tablespoons butter (divided use)
        1 to 2 dozen fresh shiitake, chanterelles or other wild mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced to equal 3 cups
        6 to 8 fresh domestic mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced to equal 1 cup
        1 shallot, minced
        1 small clove garlic, minced
        Salt and pepper, to taste
        1 to 2 tablespoons dry red wine, such as zinfandel
        1 to 2 tablespoons heavy cream
        1 to 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

        Bring beef or chicken stock to simmer, remove from heat and add dried mushrooms. Cover, off heat, and allow to sit 20 to 30 minutes. Remove reconstituted mushrooms, pick over and slice, if large, and set aside. Strain stock through fine strainer and/or cheesecloth. Set aside.

        Melt 2 tablespoons butter in saute pan over medium heat. Saute soaked dried mushrooms about a minute, then add sliced wild and domestic mushrooms. Stir together a minute, then add minced shallot and garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Add red wine and strained stock, and bring to boil.

        To finish ragout, stir in remaining butter. Remove from heat and stir in heavy cream. Taste and adjust seasonings. Add chopped parsley before serving. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

        Note: Although this dish can be made without dried mushrooms, they add an intense flavor that can't be achieved with fresh alone. Dried mushrooms are available at gourmet shops and some groceries. One of the best sources of dried and fresh wild mushrooms is Madison's at Findlay Market in Over-the-Rhine. 723-0590.

        — Adapted from Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook (Random House; $17.95)

Scribblers to roast Borgman
Women kick through TV's glass ceiling
Get to it
New theater season opens amid changing scenes
Theater schedule through December
Schedule of regional premieres
Companies brush up their Shakespeare
DEMALINE: Stellar lineup for strong fall season
Fill up on affordable theater
Writer takes comedy seriously
Artist thinks big
Cincinnati helps make Kit doll a hit
Retiree keeps 47 family scrapbooks
Unicyclist pedaled 2,400 miles
Introducing 'real' Mexican food
MARTIN: Wild mushroom stew satisfies craving for fall
Nothing like a good prime rib
Porter carries robust history
Requests pour in for cookbook
KENDRICK: Technology conference true landmark
New films rolling into Toronto festival