History does repeat itself. Thirty years ago, Napa and Sonoma were poised to become famous wine regions. Today, Lodi — a wine appellation near Sacramento in California's Central Valley — is in the same position.

        In my column Aug. 12, I wrote about Lodi's geography, history and people, illustrating Lodi's promise as a wine region with a selection of three chardonnays. These chards included one of the best white wine bargains of the 21st century: Van Ruiten-Taylor 1999 “Reserve, Lodi,” an incredible bargain for $11.

        Although I enjoyed the chardonnays, Lodi is in fact better known for its red wines. Recently I sampled several varietals and concluded that syrahs and zinfandels top my list of Lodi reds, followed by a merlot and a port.

        (In the following selections, the * symbol after the price indicates the wine is available or soon will be available in the Tristate. Some others are expected to enter our region later.)

Starry Night stars

        Surprisingly, I recommend all five syrahs I tasted, a consistency rarely found at a tasting. My top choice, and one of my three overall favorite reds, is Starry Night 1999 “Lodi” ($19.50). This dreamy-named wine has luscious aromas matched by medium-full body and bold, spicy, fruit-dominated flavors.

        A close second among syrahs is Phillips 1999 “Lodi” ($14*). It's a little less forward in aromas and flavors, and perhaps a bit more refined.

        The remaining syrahs are Jewel 1999 “Lodi” ($10); Peirano 1998 Shiraz “Lodi” ($10) and Woodbridge 1999 “California” ($9*). All are excellent values, and the Woodbridge (a former Enquirer Wine of the Week selection) is widely available.
       

Fourteen zinfandels

        Zinfandel is the variety that first raised Lodi's profile among wine lovers, but I found the 14 zins I tasted to be less consistent than the syrahs. At the top of my zin list — and another of my three favorite Lodi reds — is Jessie's Grove 1998 “Reserve, Old Vine, Westwind, Lodi” ($22). It's one of the better zins I've had this year, with full body, intense fruit flavors and a nose to match. Alas, the winery recently sold out of this wonderful wine.

        If you like your zins a bit more refined, consider Peirano 1997 “Old Vine, Lodi” ($16.50). I also recommend Ironstone 1999 “Reserve, Old Vines, Lodi” ($19); Vigil 1998 “Old Vines, Mohr-Fry Ranch, Lodi” ($19*) and Woodbridge 1998 “"Old Vine, Lodi” ($12).

        Other recommended wines include the third of my favorite reds, Peirano 1998 Merlot “Six-Clones, Lodi” ($9). This medium- to full-bodied wine is very well balanced, fortunately avoiding the high acid, low fruit profile of many merlots. As with the other Peirano wines, it may be available here soon.

        My last recommendation is a port: Woodbridge 1994 “Portacinco, Lodi” ($16*). Sip this medium-bodied, medium-sweet wine as cooler weather arrives.
        Contact John Vankat by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer; phone: (800) 524-1005; fax: 768-8330.

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