After maintaining the Maisonette's five-star standard for seven-plus years, executive chef Jean-Robert de Cavel will leave the venerable restaurant to open his own establishment, Jean-Robert at Pigall's, downtown on Fourth Street, in October.

FIVE-STAR CHEFS

Jean-Robert de Cavel (1993-present) is one of only three chefs de cuisine who have served the Maisonette kitchen since the restaurant won its first Mobil five-star award in 1964. The others: Pierre Adrian (1956-1972) and Georges Haidon (1972-1993). (Steven M. Herppich photo)

        “I want to give back to Cincinnati all the support people have given me at the Maisonette,” said Mr. de Cavel, who plans a 75-seat fine-dining restaurant at the old Pigall's restaurant, serving contemporary French cuisine. “This is just something I have to do.”

        Despite the sluggish economy and racial unrest that has hurt downtown business, Mr. de Cavel is opening his restau rant — with the help of a small group of investors — because he “can't wait until just the right time,” he said.

        A native of northern France, Mr. de Cavel moved from New York to accept the top chef's position at the Maisonette in 1993. The 39-year-old chef is credited with updating the somewhat stodgy continental-style menu and becoming engaged with the community — teaching cooking school classes and making public appearances. He is only the third executive chef to serve the Maisonette since 1964.

        Mr. de Cavel gave his notice to the Comisar family, which owns the Maisonette, Wednesday and a national search for the chef's replacement has begun.

        “We are looking for someone who is highly qualified,” said Maisonette managing partner Michael E. Comisar, who has made calls to New York and other large markets to let others know the Maisonette is chef-shopping. “It (the job search) could take weeks or it could take months. It depends on the applicants.”

Rating impact unclear

        It is unclear how Mr. de Cavel's decision to resign will affect the Maisonette's prestigious Mobil star rating. Mobil Travel Guide will announce its five-star winners — the highest restaurant rating possible — in January. This year, the Maisonette was named as one of only 17 five-star restaurants in North America. The Cincinnati restaurant has won the five-star rating for 37 consecutive years — longer than any other dining establishment.

I N T E R A C T I V E

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        Sometimes, if a restaurant undergoes ownership changes or major renovations, the Travel Guide may decide not to rate the restaurant for a year, said Sandy Duhe, program manager for Mobil Travel Guide. That is unlikely, however, if the restaurant's chef leaves.

        Most likely, the performance of the new Maisonette chef will not be reflected in the Mobil rating until 2003, Ms. Duhe said.

        Mr. de Cavel has agreed to continue to work at the Maisonette for at least two months, until the owners hire a new chef.

        Although there have been rumors of tensions between the chef and owners, both said the parting will be amicable.

        “When he came, he committed to being here five years,” Mr. Comisar said. “We didn't expect him to stay much longer. He has worked extremely hard for us, and we know that everyone has their own life to live.”

Chefs become owners

        Many chefs who have worked for successful restaurants go on to open their own establishments. TV super-chef Emeril Lagasse earned his stripes at Commander's Palace in New Orleans before opening his string of restaurants. Daniel Boulud, one of Mr. de Cavel's mentors who recommended him for the Maisonette job, cooked at Le Cirque in New York for six years before opening the acclaimed Restaurant Daniel in 1993. Mr. Boulud expects to open a third in New York next month.

        “Daniel Boulud has said some chefs are made to own their own restaurant and some are not,” said Mr. de Cavel. “I think I am.”

        Mr. de Cavel cooked in award-winning kitchens in France, Anguilla and New York before taking the Maisonette position. Although he was a partner in a Greenwich Village bistro, Jean-Robert at Pigall's will be his first as sole chef-owner.

        Mr. de Cavel said he was excited to come to work at the Maisonette, but knew he would move on at some point.

        “I knew I couldn't stay there until I retire,” he said. “It's just not me.”

        The tradition and look of the old Pigall's restaurant helped convince him it would be his spot.

        “When the location came up, I felt like I had to do something,” Mr. de Cavel said. “I have talked to people, some who no longer live in Cincinnati, and they remember Pigall's and the time when Cincinnati had three five-star restaurants.”

        Much of the mid-1960s and early '70s, Cincinnati boasted three Mobil five-star restaurants: the Maisonette, the Gourmet Room in the Terrace Hilton (now the Crowne Plaza) and Pigall's. Another Maisonette chef — Maurice Gorodetsky — opened Pigall's in 1956 at Fifth and Pike treets, downtown. (Pigall's is a variation of a name for a former red-light district in Paris.) Pigall's moved to its present location on Fourth Street, between Race and Elm streets, in 1968.

        Former Maisonette maitre d' Don Whittle bought Pigall's in 1973 and closed it in 1990. The next year, partners Jimmy Gherardi and Paul Sturkey transformed the restaurant into a casual cafe. In the fall of 1999, Mr. Gherardi and partners changed the name to Pig Al's and the menu to down-home barbecue. That restaurant closed in April 2000, and the space has been empty since.

        “The old Pigall's was terrific,” said Stuart Sutphin, chairman of Closson's, who works nearby. “I think people will come, and I look forward to it.”

Chef an attraction

        Some may be wary of the Fourth Street location, but not Mr. de Cavel, who decided against opening in the suburbs or in other parts of Cincinnati.

        Former owner and chef Mr. Sturkey believes the Pigall's location can offer a challenge, but thinks Mr. de Cavel's name recognition will attract customers.

        “It's small, and I think that's important,” said Mr. Sturkey, who owns restaurants in Wyoming and West Chester. “He can do quality food there.”

        Rick Greiwe, president of Downtown Cincinnati Inc., predicted Mr. de Cavel will succeed at the Pigall's location because of occupied office space in that part of downtown, plus new residential developments.

        In describing his menu and design, Mr. de Cavel said his restaurant will not be a “classical French restaurant.” He is bringing in a Chicago interior designer to create a “modern” and “whimsical” look. He called his cuisine “contemporary French,” using seasonal ingredients that he will buy as much as possible from local growers.

        Although he can't be specific about prices (he said they will be less than at the Maisonette), his dinner menu will be prix fixe or “fixed price,” meaning several courses will be offered at a preset price. Mr. de Cavel also plans to serve lunch.

De Cavel (right) celebrates the Maisonette's 37th consecutive Five Star rating last January with Nat Comisar, co-owner; Brad Anderson, Maitre dą; and Michael Comisar, co-owner. (Gary Landers photo) | ZOOM |

        Based on these details, many will conclude Jean-Robert at Pigall's will no doubt compete with his former employers at the Maisonette.

        “I think Cincinnati needs competition,” Mr. de Cavel said. “But it will be friendly, and I won't be the first to compete with the Maisonette.”

        For fans of Mr. de Cavel and the Maisonette such as Judie Guttadauro, the latest development in downtown dining may offer the best of both worlds.

        “I will eat at the new restaurant,” said Ms. Guttadauro, “but I think Cincinnati foodies will continue their love affair with the Maisonette.”

        Enquirer reporter Polly Campbell contributed to this report.
       

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