Wednesday, August 02, 2000
Casual becomes 'business appropriate'
Despite backlash against sloppiness, relaxed work clothing is now standard
By Shauna Scott Rhone
The Cincinnati Enquirer
If you listen carefully around the cubicles and corner offices all over Greater Cincinnati you can hear the sound of hands loosening knotted ties, feet kicking back in sandals and boat shoes and shoulders shucking jackets to the backs of ergonomically correct chairs.
Although there is an apparent national backlash to casual dress at the office, most Enquirer readers who last month answered our question, “How casual is too casual?” supported relaxed office styles.
“My work environment at a local health insurance concern has been "casual' for a very long time, and not just on Fridays,” wrote Jeffrey A. Smith of Clifton Heights. “In fact, Fridays are even more casual than the rest of the week. Production is up, morale is up and profits are up.”
Nevertheless, some workplaces are retreating from casual dress. Last week, the Campbell County School Board adopted a dress code for teachers which, among other things, bans tennis shoes and zippered tops.
Dress code revisions
Ann Marie Sabath, founder of At Ease Inc., a Cincinnati-based business etiquette training firm, believes business casual is quickly falling out of favor.
“From dealing with corporations in Cincinnati as well as on the West and East Coasts, I can tell you first hand that "business casual' is on its way out. “Business appropriate' is on its way in,” she says, referring to the backlash of dress code revisions increasing around the country.
“Why? Because in many organizations, "business casual' has been misinterpreted as "casual' (i.e., what you throw on to go to the movies or grocery store) or "business sloppy' (i.e., what you wear to work in the garden). “My comments are echoed by Gen-Xers who are in supervisory positions. During our Professional Presence: What Does Your Attire Say About You? programs, the question is frequently asked, "How low can dress go?' You can bet that the "30-something' group will take "business casual' and convert it to "business appropriate.'”
According to a survey by the Society for Human Resource Management, 44 percent of the 750 corporate benefits executives surveyed this year said their companies allowed business casual dress daily, compared with 42 percent in 1999. Forty-three percent of corporations with more than 5,000 employees permit at least one day of casual dress during a typical work week, a 10 percent drop from last year.
Laurie Wilson, business casual consultant for Lazarus, presents dressing seminars for companies including Procter and Gamble, Sibcy Cline and Hillshire Farms.
“I have been working with this subject since early 1995 when IBM announced they were going "corporate casual,'” Ms. Wilson says. “I have addressed organizations nationwide during this change in the way we "do business.' It is no longer a "trend' or a fad ... this is a true alteration to the way the masses dress for work.”
"Casual Friday' opened door
“Casual Friday” began in the 1980s in an effort to boost employee morale and increase productivity by giving employees more control over their work attire. Slowly, the blue- and white-collar business dress color line blurred. Bosses lost their ties and workers created their own “uniforms.”
The terms “business casual” and “business appropriate” have revolutionized the concept of dress codes and spurred a multinational debate. While Americans fret over whether women should be required to wear hose, professionals in England feel it's risky to wear colored shirts.
So what does dressing casually on the job involve? The mail-order and online clothing retailer Lands' End has identified three levels of business casual attire:
1. Almost a suit
For men: If you work in a highly visible situation, you fit best with sport coats, blazers, dress shirts, ties and tailored pants. Leather shoes are a must here, and shoes that tie are dressier than loafers. Color and pattern coordination is important. Options might include a trim sweater or a coordinated vest.
For women: For some, this may be as simple as substituting trousers for a skirt. Coordinating separates (for instance, a matching blazer and pants made from the same fabric) is also a fine strategy. Pair them with a refined blouse and you're set.
2. Best of both worlds
For men: Your workplace is more flexible. You have lots of leeway here — ties and sport coats are spotted frequently, but not usually together. Both tailored wool pants and chinos work well. Popular contributions are a classy polo or turtleneck under a sport coat, or a dress shirt — with or without tie — under a nice sweater. Loafers, lug soles and nubuck shoes get the green light.
For women: A bit more relaxed, but still professional. Try a simple skirt with a crisp blouse and a classic scarf. Or, get more mileage out of your wardrobe by pairing a matching blazer/trousers with a more casual top, like a stretch tee.
3. Clearly casual
For men: “Your organization is pretty laid back. Think polo shirt and chinos. Or a woven sport shirt with or without a sweater. T-shirts may be OK if worn under a sweater or shirt. It varies, but your work wardrobe probably includes no jeans, shorts, novelty T-shirts, sandals or sneakers.
For women: “Easygoing as this style is, there are some pitfalls to avoid. Keep in mind the difference between work and weekend, saving things like sleeveless tops, shorts, sandals, sneakers and jeans for leisure. You'll never go wrong with classics like sweaters and chinos.”
Many items can cross from one category to the next, but rarely straddle all three categories. For example, a blazer can dress almost anything up but casual shoes such as sandals make a stronger non-business statement.
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